What Your Dermatologist Was Not Taught About Acne!


Feb26 2011 - Acne

To understand how physicians interact with their patients you need to understand how they are traditionally taught.  When we study and pass our medical board to become an MD, then pass our higher boards to become a specialist, all the knowledge we are given comes out of text books and peer reviewed medical journals.  These text books and peer review journals, in order to maintain integrity and pass on only proven knowledge, have to adhere to strict guidelines pertaining to what is published.  This system, as it should, prevents “huckster” type ideals from being introduced into the mainstream.  However, it is also too cumbersome to exchange knowledge rapidly.

In the acne forefront there is a lot of new knowledge that is available now, but will not show up in peer review journals or text books for several years.  One interesting point is that if you read a dermatology text book about acne, it will tell you that a person’s diet has no affect on one’s acne.  Scientists are now realizing that the patients knew more than they did all along, and in fact what a person eats can exacerbate their acne.

There is always the patient who notices they break out after eating greasy fast food, drinking too many sodas, drinking too much caffeine, or over-indulging in dairy products.  In traditional dermatological text books and peer review journals large studies could never prove this diet relationship. However, now the anecdotal evidence has become overwhelming and we know that hormones that are present from the dairy cow do make it through into the products that we humans ingest.  Those hormones can affect the glands in our skin, promoting a larger gland that produces oily, sticky secretions that can lead to acne.  It has also been observed that certain other dietary products, fatty acids and even caffeine can be pro-inflammatory to the skin and once the inflammatory cascade happens in the skin acne formation begins (Ugh! White heads and black heads!).

Also the dermatologist may not yet be aware that traditional benzol peroxide production was a very dangerous milling process that led to an inferior large molecular size – too large to get to the deep source of the pore affected with acne. Now there is a novel new way to produce these benzol peroxides for human use that consistently generates a small particle size benzoyl peroxide molecule, one that can go down the pore and meet acne head-on where it starts.  This new novel benzoyl peroxide, combined with innovative and exciting natural ingredients to decrease inflammation and speed healing have created the most exciting new acne products of our generation.  Unfortunately these new exciting products will not make it into the medical literature for quite some time and we learn from them first in forums like this.

Dr. ParksThis article is authored by Jeffrey Parks, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist dedicated to providing each patient with the highest quality of care. Dr. Parks’ memberships and professional affiliations include: the American Academy of Dermatology, American Medical Association, American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery, American Society for Mohs Surgery, Laser Institute Society, as well as numerous state and local organizations.

A Regimen of Gentle Skin Care Helps Control Rosacea

The way you take care of your skin can either help calm rosacea or make it worse.  Rosacea affects the stratum corneum, the top layer of skin, mainly on the face.  On people with rosacea, this top layer of skin is fragile and frequently sensitive to harsh skincare products and aggressive cleansing techniques.  If not treated early and the right way rosacea can cause long term skin issues that are unattractive, uncomfortable and can worsen over time.

Rosacea usually first appears as a tendency for the face to blush or flush easily and can start in childhood.  Triggers like cold, heat, exercise, eating spicy foods or drinking alcohol can cause flushing.  As the condition progresses, spider veins may appear on the nose or cheeks and the skin can thicken and become bumpy.  Acne-like breakouts may occur in some cases.  So, what is the best way to care for rosacea?  Once the diagnosis of rosacea is made, your dermatologist may prescribe a course of treatment that includes antibiotics and certain topically applied prescription products for your specific symptoms.

Along with these treatments, many dermatologists recommend a barrier-repair emollient to soothe the skin, reduce redness, and protect it from environmental effects.  Look for something that is moisturizing, but not oily, and that contains botanicals such as Arnica Montana to reduce redness and Canadian Willowherb to calm inflammation.  Skin care products containing these ingredients can be found over-the-counter in drug or health food stores, or online.  One good product to consider is BruiseCare.

And here’s a tip:  Just because a product is marketed to treat a specific skin problem, does not mean it can’t be used on other conditions – read the ingredient listings.  Applying at bedtime and again in the morning can help protect the skin and stop rosacea from advancing.

Finally, sun exposure can aggravate rosacea, so wearing sunscreen everyday is important.  Choose a product that is oil and fragrance-free, and that is formulated to be gentle.  RosaceaNet has some great information and valuable tips on developing a simple daily skin care routine to help control your rosacea.

AcneCare – Why Don’t the “After” Photos Usually Have a Date?


Feb18 2011 - Acne

Before & AfterMarketers of acne treatment products almost always base their ad campaigns around before and after photography and testimonials.  The photos are dramatic, showing first acne ravaged skin and then a shot of the same person with glowing, healthy skin.  And the headlines are sensational.  “Before I tried Super Duper Acne Cream I Hated Myself in the Mirror.  Now I’m like Narcissus at the Pond!”  The ads show you the pictures, filled with promises of after. What they don’t tell you is when after is, and what happened in between.

If you have been on the treatment end of acne you know, all too well, why this is the case.  Most of the time this is a drawn out and often frustrating process–maybe you start out using a new product with encouraging results, only to find a week or so in you have your worst breakout in years.  It’s no wonder that many people just give up treating the acne with the hope it will go away on its own in time.  But these people in the ad photos clearly stuck with it, probably for what seemed like a long time.

The thing to remember is that you are likely to see results with a good treatment plan. It just may not be as fast as the photographs suggest.  Depending on the product you are using–you could see some reduction in redness and slight changes in skin texture the first few days.  After that, the existing blemishes should start to clear and continued improvement in skin texture should be noticed.  Don’t be discouraged when new breakouts occur along the way or if you have to cut back the applications because dryness develops.

All in all, about two weeks to a month into treatment, if you are consistent with your regime, lasting results should be on the way.  For long term great results be ready to attack at the first sign of a breakout and stick with it until it subsides.  Here’s looking at a beautiful after.

You Never Stop Caring About Your Appearance—I Get It Now, Dad!


Feb16 2011 - Bruising

Bruised ArmsI can still remember the first time I noticed my Dad looking at the bruises on his forearms and rubbing them as if he could magically make them disappear. The bruising started when blood thinners were prescribed after he suffered a serious heart attack. Slowly, but surely, his arms became covered in varying shades of purple, black and red. How he hated the sight of them. And he would often remark how ugly they made him feel.

Dad took to wearing long sleeves or sweaters, even in the middle of sweltering Florida summers. He said he was cold and since he was aging it could have been the case.  But since he had worn short sleeve dress shirts his entire life—I often wondered if it was a convenient excuse to hide the unsightly bruises.

For the life of me I couldn’t fathom why it even bothered him. He was almost 80 years old—what difference did it make? The important thing was the blood thinners were doing their job and he hadn’t had another heart attack.

A few years later, Alzheimer’s disease began to overtake my Father’s brilliant mind. In his prime, he was an engineer–working on both the Gemini and Apollo Space programs. As the disease progressed, he lost the cognitive ability to do even the simplest tasks. But oddly, one thing didn’t change. Whenever his arms were bare—he would continually rub the bruises on his arms to try and make them go away.

Fast forward to the present. My Dad passed away a couple of years ago and I am doing some freelance work for an old colleague of mine. He’s taken his 35 years of experience in the skin care industry and has teamed up with a well-known local dermatologist who was completely frustrated by the fact that he had nothing to offer his patients with bruising. They enlisted the help of a leading R&D chemist and a major raw material supplier who specializes in natural ingredients. Together, they developed a bruise care product that has made life so much better for a lot of people like my Dad.

I’ve witnessed with my own eyes the improvement of the bruising on their hands, arms and legs. And I’ve seen how it’s changed how they feel about their appearance—no matter what their age. When I look at them—I see my Dad– looking down at his arms. I wish that he were here so I could tell him, “I get it now, Dad—I really do.

Does Chocolate Make Acne Worse? A Valentine’s Day Dilemma…


Feb14 2011 - Acne

Valentine’s Day is a holiday filled with mixed emotions.  You hope for that romantic gesture from the guy or girl you have eyes for – and here it comes – a big box of chocolates! Haven’t you always been told that chocolate and rich, fatty foods will make your acne flare up?  In our investigation the verdict is still out as to how much diet contributes to acne development and which foods are the worst.

For the last decade or so it has been thought that food had no effect on acne.  However, recent research has indicated that it certainly may play a role. For instance, one study has shown that there could be a link between drinking milk and acne. At least 75% of the milk consumed in the United States comes from pregnant cows.  Since acne is fueled by hormones, there is a possibility that drinking milk could contribute to acne development.¹

Valentines Day - Does Chocolate Cause Acne?Sweets and chocolate have historically been thought to cause break-outs, but it was not completely understood why.

We now know that too much insulin has been shown to produce an excess of male hormones–which causes the pores to secret more sebum which leads to pimples.

Research has shown that eliminating refined carbohydrates and sugars like bread, cereal, pasta, rice, potatoes, corn, and sweets, may be helpful because this will greatly reduce the amount of insulin produced by the body.²

The best advice is to pay attention to your own body and avoid foods that you know may cause you to break out.  When a break out does happen, treat the area as soon as you notice it using a product like SkinHealth Technology’s AcneCare ClearTech Treatment.  This formula contains 5% micronized benzoyl peroxide to deeply penetrate the pore and a blend of cosmeceuticals to calm the redness.

So, if you have noticed that certain foods do indeed cause problems for your skin, ask for roses next year.

  1. Adebamowo CA, Spiegelman D, Danby FW et al. High school dietary dairy intake and teenage acne. J Am Acad Dermatol 2005; 52: 207-14.
  2. Mercola.com

Gisele’s “Poison” Sunscreen Controversy


Feb09 2011 - Sun Protection

To Use Sunscreen or Not to Use Sunscreen? That is the question!

If you hadn’t heard, supermodel Gisele Bundchen is being criticized, globally, by dermatologists and other skin cancer experts for an alleged remark she made in Sao Paulo, Brazil on Friday.Gisele Bundchen

In regards to the use of sunscreens, Bundchen is reported to have said.
I cannot put this poison on my skin. I do not use anything synthetic.

Aside from the fact that the statement was conveniently made during the launch of her very own organic skin care line—Ms. Bundchen does bring up a valid point, and one that is shared by a number of reputable individuals and organizations that denounce the use of chemical sunscreen products.

One such group—the Environmental Working Group (EWG) states, “The ideal sunscreen would completely block the UV rays that cause sunburn, immune suppression and damaging free radicals. It would remain effective on the skin for several hours and not form harmful ingredients when degraded by UV light. It would smell and feel pleasant so that people use it in the right amount and frequency. Unsurprisingly, there is currently no sunscreen that meets all of these criteria. The major choice in the U.S. is between ‘chemical’ sunscreens, which have inferior stability, penetrate the skin and may disrupt the body’s hormone systems, and “mineral” sunscreens (zinc and titanium), which often contain micronized or nano-scale particles of those minerals.” 1

So, what in the world is a responsible and well-informed person to do? Well, fortunately there are answers that Gisele and the EWG may simply not be aware of. Actually, there are new sunscreen formulas available in the U.S. such as Skinhealth Technology’s “UV SkinCare” that substantially limit the use of chemicals. And the ingredients used in UV SkinCare products do not include titanium dioxide or zinc in nano-particle size or any other form. Also, no oxybenzone and no vitamin A.

These broad spectrum products provide the highest 4-Star/UVA protection available along with 35 SPF/UVB protection. (So they already meet the FDA’s proposed new sunscreen guidelines.) Potent, natural anti-oxidants -Canadian Willowherb and vitamins B, C, E and K are added to help prevent skin damage and reduce UV-induced redness. The formulas are photostable, deliver consistent protection throughout the day and will not degrade like most conventional sunscreens. With 90% natural ingredients—and the minimal use of only the safest sunscreens—these suncare products are truly the answer!

  1. Environmental Working Group

What is Micronized Benzoyl Peroxide Gel?


Feb01 2011 - Acne

Acne has always been an issue for adolescents and young adults.  For some individuals the condition has continued well into their adult years.

The exact cause of acne is not known and the triggers for an outbreak vary from person to person.  It is indisputable that an acne break-out can be a catastrophic occurrence, especially for a teenager, and anything that can be done to eliminate and prevent this from happening is worth the time, effort and money.

Acne Forehead Before Shot

Typical Teenage Acne... (click for before/after pics)

Diet and cleansing have been common first line preventative measures, but whether either of these factors really plays into prevention of acne is the great debate.  Sometimes excessive cleansing can even make the acne outbreak worse by stimulating the body to secrete more sebum, the oily/waxy matter that the sebaceous glands produce to lubricate the skin.  Acne occurs when the sebum causes the follicles to become blocked, resulting in blackheads and whiteheads.  Behind the blockage is an environment that is ideally suited for several microbes to flourish, most commonly P. acnes and S. epidermidis.  The byproducts produced by these microbes can cause additional irritation to the skin resulting in erythema (redness) and possibly infection if there has been a breakage in the duct wall.

With the increasing effectiveness of over the counter products and more public attention through infomercials and celebrity endorsements, anti-acne products have become a major business.  Of the many strategies to fight acne, one of the most common and effective active ingredients is benzoyl peroxide, which, unfortunately has been known for causing skin irritation. The micronized benzoyl peroxide you have heard about is a more advanced form that has dramatically reduced, if not eliminated, this side effect while potentially increasing the efficacy.

Benzoyl peroxide works in two ways to eliminate the acne plug.  The first is direct contact of the benzoyl peroxide with the plug.  When it comes in contact with the pimple it oxidizes the sebum causing the plug to essentially liquefy, opening the pore.  The second is where the benzoyl peroxide oxidizes the surface sebum.  The “oxidized sebum” then migrates into the pore working as an antimicrobial agent.

If the benzoyl peroxide is too concentrated in one area, all of the available sebum can be oxidized, leaving residual benzoyl peroxide on the skin’s surface.  The benzoyl peroxide and excess oxidized sebum can react with the healthy skin causing the characteristic irritation and redness for which benzoyl peroxide is known.  This is so common that, in the newly finalized acne monograph, the FDA requires the following statement:  “…skin irritation may occur, characterized by redness, burning, itching, peeling, or possibly swelling…”² on all packaging.

So, what is the cause for this over abundance of benzoyl peroxide on the skin? It’s the particle size of the benzoyl peroxide in raw material form used in the acne product.  Most often benzoyl peroxide it is bought in a highly concentrated powder form.  The manufacturer uses milling equipment to grind the benzoyl peroxide as part of the manufacturing process, but the process of milling can result in a finished product with a gritty feel.  This benzoyl peroxide can cause chemical irrit

Blocked Pore

Skin cross-section of a blocked pore

ation of the skin along with the added physical irritation of the grittiness to an already sensitive skin surface.

The answer to all of these issues is a micronized benzoyl peroxide gel.  Micronized benzoyl peroxide gels currently available have been ground to a mean particle size of <5 microns but with no particles below 100 nanometers, which is the guideline set by Canada, New Zealand and other countries to address the issue of nano-sized particles.  The most noticeable characteristic change with the micronized benzoyl peroxide is the reaction on the skin.  The micronized benzoyl peroxide produces much less irritation and penetrates the pores more deeply and effectively to keep the activity to the main problem.

The advantages of using a micronized benzoyl peroxide gel over the traditional solid benzoyl peroxide are found in both the

handling and safety of the raw material and the effectiveness and gentleness of the final product.   With this technology the door is open to more efficient and less irritating benzoyl peroxide based acne products.

Note:
This blog post is condensed from Micronized Benzoyl Peroxide Gel: Consumer’s Choice for Acne Treatment and Prevention by Mike Davies & Chris Gerlach. Essential Ingredients, Inc. August 20, 2010

  1. Decker, L. Christopher; Deuel, Dianne M.; Sedlock, David M., Role of Lipids in Augmenting the Antibacterial Activity of Benzoyl Peroxide against Propionibacterium acnes.  Antimicrobial Agents and Chemotherapy March, 1989, p. 326-330.
  2. FDA Acne Final Monograph, 2010, Section 333.350(c) (4).
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